Size 48: a critical analysis of plus-size clothing patterns and their implications for body acceptance

Authors

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.5965/1982615x18452025e0015

Keywords:

plus size fashion, modeling, inclusion.

Abstract

This article investigates plus-size clothing pattern-making, focusing on size 48, and analyzes the ABNT guidelines applicable to this field, as well as the difficulties consumers face when searching for clothing that meets their physical and aesthetic needs. Based on authors such as Katz (2012) and Jimenez (2022), the study addresses concepts of representation and body acceptance, highlighting the importance of recognizing body diversity. The methodology is divided into two stages: the first compares size 48 measurement charts from four sources—Draft brand mannequins, WM Manequins, and the NBR 16933 guidelines for "spoon" and "rectangular" body types—while the second conducts a content analysis of an Instagram post by influencer Brenda Avelar, which promotes body acceptance and challenges traditional aesthetic standards, aligning with the empowerment and inclusion theories of Ribeiro and Matos (2022). The results indicate that, although efforts have been made to adjust the standards, ABNT guidelines still need improvements to accommodate a diverse audience, reinforcing the importance of considering the experiences of people with larger bodies. The research also reveals that the inclusion of plus-size bodies in the fashion market is not only a matter of representation but also an expanding market opportunity.

Downloads

Download data is not yet available.

Author Biographies

Rachel Rios Scherrer, Universidade Federal de Minas Gerais

PhD candidate in Design (UEMG), Master’s in Contemporary Cultural Studies from Fumec University (2016), graduated in Architecture and Urbanism from Pontifical Catholic University of Minas Gerais (2004), Fashion Design from Cesumar University (2017), and Interior Design from Cesumar University (2019). University professor since 2008, taught Fashion Design at the School of Design (UEMG) in 2022 and 2023, and was a substitute professor at UFMG in 2020 and 2021. With experience in architecture, focusing on the food industry, and in fashion, she stands out in graphic computing, digital modeling, moulage, pattern making, sewing, and visual merchandising.

Eduardo Romeiro Filho, Universidade Federal de Minas Gerais

Graduated in Industrial Design from the State University of Rio de Janeiro (1987), with a Master’s degree (1993) and a PhD (1997) in Production Engineering from Coppe, Alberto Luiz Coimbra Institute of Postgraduate Studies and Research in Engineering, Federal University of Rio de Janeiro. Visiting Professor at the Design for Sustainability Program, Faculty of Industrial Design Engineering, Delft University of Technology, Netherlands (2010). Full Professor at the School of Engineering, Federal University of Minas Gerais. Permanent faculty member of the PhD program in Design at UEMG (State University of Minas Gerais), the PhD program in Technological and Biopharmaceutical Innovation, and the Professional Master’s in Technological Innovation and Intellectual Property at UFMG. He has experience in Production Engineering and Design, with an emphasis on Product Design Methodology, primarily working on the following topics: Product Design, Design for Sustainability, Product Ergonomics, and Computer-Aided Design. Author of the books CAD na Indústria: Implantação e Gerenciamento (UFRJ Publishing, 1997), Projeto do Produto (Campus/Elsevier, 2010, coordinator), and Sistemas Integrados de Manufatura (Atlas, 2015).

Heloísa Santos, Universidade Federal de Minas Gerais

Postdoctoral research on tools for multipliers in Fashion Design at the School of Arts, Sciences, and Humanities, University of São Paulo - EACH/USP. PhD in Materials Engineering from the Thematic Network in Materials Engineering - REDEMAT - UFOP / UEMG. Master’s degree in Production Engineering from the Federal University of Minas Gerais/UFMG. Graduated in Industrial Design (1986) and Artistic Education from the State University of Minas Gerais/UEMG. Currently, she serves as the Director of the School of Design at UEMG - State University of Minas Gerais, and is a professor and researcher at the School of Design/UEMG, where she teaches courses in: Materials and Processes, Research and Collection Planning, and Footwear Development. She is a collaborating professor in the Postgraduate Program in Design - PPGD/UEMG and a collaborating professor in the Postgraduate Program in Materials Engineering at the Federal University of Ouro Preto - REDEMAT/UFOP. She is a member of the Evaluation Committee of the Design Research Institute of the Network of Design Researchers at the University of Palermo/Argentina for the 2021-2025 period. She is also a member of the Textile Sectorial Committee, an entity belonging to ABIT - Brazilian Association of the Textile Industry. Her areas of expertise and interest include: Product and Fashion Design, Footwear Industry, Textile and Clothing Industry, Jewelry, and Sustainability.

References

ABNT NBR 16933:2021. (2021). Têxteis – Determinação da estabilidade dimensional de tecidos planos. Associação Brasileira de Normas Técnicas.

AGUIAR, Titta. Personal Stylist: guia para consultores de imagem / Titta Aguiar; ilustrações Irene Maia, Renato Raga. – 4a ed. Rev. São Paulo: Editora Senac São Paulo, 2006.

AIRES, Aliana Barbosa. De gorda a plus size: a moda do tamanho grande / Aliana Barbosa Aires. – Barueri, SP: Estação das Letras e Cores, 2019.

ARRUDA, Agnes. O peso e a mídia: as faces da gordofobia. / Agnes Arruda. 1. ed. – São Paulo: Alameda, 2021.

AVELAR, Brenda. Vamos falar sobre "roupa para pessoas gordas"? Instagram, 17 abr. 2024. Disponível em: https://www.instagram.com/p/C54WQBCOy3L/?img_index=1. Acesso em: 25 JUL. 2024.

BESERRA, Ana Carolina; Macedo, Amanda & Santos, Regina Célia. Marcelo M. Ergonomia no Vestuário feminino plus size: os valores subjetivos da modelagem. 17o Colóquio de Moda – 11 a 15 de outubro de 20117 – UNESP – Bauru – SP. Disponível em <http://www.coloquiomoda.com.br/anais/Coloquio%20de%20Moda%20-%202017/COM_ORAL/co_1/co_1_ERGONOMIA_NO_VESTUARIO.pdf> Acesso em 18 jun. 2022.

BETTI, Marcella Uceda. Beleza sem medidas? Corpo, gênero e consumo no mercado de moda plus-size. 2014. Tese de Doutorado. Universidade de São Paulo.

CARDOSO, Rafael. Design para um Mundo Complexo. Cosac Naify, São Paulo, Brasil, 2012.

CARVALHAL, André. Moda com propósito: manifesto pela grande virada. / André Carvalhal. — 1a-ed. — São Paulo: Paralela, 2016.

CARVALHO, P. T., & Manzano, L. C. G. (2020). Das (Im)possibilidades do Corpo: Uma Análise Discursiva da Moda sobre o Corpo Plus Size. Universidade de Franca/UNIFRAN. Doi: 10.5212/Uniletras.v.42.15396.2020

CONTE, Adriana Job Ferreira. Moda, uma metáfora – 1. Ed. – Curiiba: Appris, 2015.

COOPER, Charlotte. Fat activism: a radical social movement (Second Edition). Bristol: HammerOn Press, 2021.

DEL PRIORE, Mary. Corpo a corpo com a mulher: pequena história das transformações do corpo feminino no Brasil / Mary Del Priore. – São Paulo: Editora Senac, São Paulo, 2000. – (Série Ponto Futuro: 2).

DUARTE, Sonia & SAGGESE, Sylvia. Modelagem Industrial Brasileira. Rio de Janeiro: Guarda-Roupa Edito, 2009.

EMÍDIO, Lucimar de Fátima Bilmaia. MODThink: projetando a modelagem do vestuário / Lucimar de Fátima Bilmaia Emídio. – Barueri, SP: Estacao das Letras e Cores Editora, 2021.

FERRAZ, Danielle. Moda sob medida: guia prático de moda para a vida real / Daniella Ferraz, Penha Moraes – São Paulo: Editora Senac São Paulo, 2017.

FISCHER, Anette. Fundamentos de design de moda: construção de vestuário / Anette Fischer. Tradução Camila Bisol Brum Scherer. – Porto Alegre: bookman, 2010.

FLORÊNCIO, Letícia Oliveira; REIKDAL, Cleverton. A obesidade como consequência da publicidade de alimentos e a proteção da legislação brasileira ao público infantil. Revista Eletrônica da ESA/RO. Destemidos Pioneiros, v. 12, p. 1-19, 2019.

GAMA, Maria. A ideologia do consumo na moda: uma visão diacrónica. Comunicação e Sociedade, v. 24, p. 210-220, 2013.

GANEM, Gabriela. Qual seu tipo físico? 11 jun. 2016. Disponível em: https://gabrielaganem.com/2016/06/qual-seu-tipo-fisico/. Acesso em: 30 jul. 2024.

GARDIN, Carlos. O Corpo Mídia: Modos e Moda. In: Oliveira, Ana Claudia de; Castilho, Kátia. Corpo e moda: por uma compreensão do contemporâneo / Ana Claudia de Oliveira, Kátia Castilho, organizadoras. – Barueri, SP: Estação das Letras e Cores Editora, 2008. p.75-83.

GAY, Roxane. Fome: uma autobiografia do (meu) corpo / Roxane Gay; tradução Alice Klesck. – 1.ed. – São Paulo: Globo, 2017.

GOLDENBERG, Mirian. O corpo como capital: estudos sobre gênero, sexualidade e moda na cultura brasileira. / Mirian Goldenberg. – Barueri, SP: Estação das Letras e Cores Editora, 2007.

GOLDENBERG, Mirian. Invisíveis ou inclassificáveis? Gênero, corpo e envelhecimento na cultura brasileira. In: Corpo, moda e ética: pistas para uma reflexão de valores / Cristiane Mesquita e Kathia Castilho (org.). São Paulo: Estação das Letras e Cores, 2012. P.61-78.

GOMES, Danila. Introdução ao design inclusivo / Danila Gomes, Manuela Quaresma. 1. Ed. – Curitiba, Appris, 2018.

GURGEL, Alexandra. Comece a se amar. Bestseller, 2021.

JIMENEZ, Malu. Lute como uma gorda / Malu Jimenez. – São Paulo: Jandaira, 2022.

KATZ, Helena. Para ser contemporâneo da biopolítica: corpo, moda trevas e luz. In: Mesquita, Cristiane; Castilho, Kathia. Corpo, moda e ética: pistas para uma reflexão de valores / orgs. Cristiane Mesquita e Kathia Castilho – São Paulo: Estação das Letras e Cores Editora, 2012. p.17-26.

LAZZARI, Emanuele T. & Siveira, Icléia. Moda Plus Size e Arte. 14o Colóquio de Moda – 30/08/2014 a 03/09/2014 UCS – Caxias do Sul – RS.

LOSCHEK, Ingrid. When clothes become fashion: Design and innovation systems. Berg, 2009.

LUPTON, Ellen. Extra Bold: um guia feminista, inclusivo, antirracista, não binário para designers. 1ª ed. Editora Olhares, 2023.

MATTOS, Rafael et al. Obesidade e bullying na infância e adolescência: o estigma da gordura. DEMETRA: Alimentação, Nutrição & Saúde, v. 7, n. 2, p. 71-84, 2012.

MELO, Junia & SCHERRER, Rachel. O Corpo Idealizado – o Corpo Real. 4o Colóquio de Moda – 29 de setembro a 02 de outubro de 2008 – FEEVALE – Novo Hamburgo - RS.

MUNNIZ, Letticia. Tem que ter muita audácia pra criticar o corpo da @yasminbrunet!!! São Paulo, 14 de janeiro de 2024. Instagram, @letticiamunniz. Acesso em 15 jan. 2024.

NASCIMENTO, Christiane Moura; PRÓCHNO, Caio César Souza Camargo; SILVA, Luiz Carlos Avelino da. O corpo da mulher contemporânea em revista. Fractal: Revista de Psicologia, v. 24, p. 385-404, 2012.

PRICE, Jeanne & ZAMKOFF, Bernard. Grading techniques for fashion design. Second edition - New York: Fairchild publications, 1996.

QUEIROZ, Renato da Silva e OTTA, Emma. A beleza em foco: condicionantes culturais e psicobiológicos na definição de estética corporal. In: O Corpo do brasileiro: estudos de estética e beleza / Renato da Silva Queiroz organizador. São Paulo: Editora SENAC São Paulo, 2000.

RIBEIRO, José Carlos & MATOS, Mariana. As performances de influenciadoras digitais de moda plus size na plataforma digital Instagram. Dobras, São Paulo, número 36, p.38-55, setembro – dezembro, 2022. https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras | e-ISSN 2358-0003

SALLES, Bruna. “A Disneylândia das gordas”: o Pop Plus e as feiras de moda plus size no Brasil. Dobras, São Paulo, número 33, p.38-55, setembro – dezembro, 2021. https://dobras.emnuvens.com.br/dobras | e-ISSN 2358-0003

STRINGS, Sabrina. Fearing the Black Body: The Racial Origins of Fat Phobia (English Edition). New York: New York University Press, 2019.

WOLF, Naomi. O mito da beleza: como as imagens de beleza são usadas contra as mulheres / Naomi Wolf; tradução Waldéa Barcellos. – 1. Ed. – Rio de Janeiro: Rosa dos Tempos, 2018.

Capa da Modapalavra, edição Variata, V.18, N.45, 2025. Pessoa em figurino volumoso de tule, em fundo escuro. No canto superior direito, o logotipo da revista Modapalavra com um ponto de interrogação estilizado como letra p.

Downloads

Published

2025-10-03

How to Cite

SCHERRER, Rachel Rios; ROMEIRO FILHO, Eduardo; HELOÍSA SANTOS. Size 48: a critical analysis of plus-size clothing patterns and their implications for body acceptance. ModaPalavra e-periódico, Florianópolis, v. 18, n. 45, p. 01–29, 2025. DOI: 10.5965/1982615x18452025e0015. Disponível em: https://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/modapalavra/article/view/25989. Acesso em: 10 oct. 2025.

Issue

Vol. 18 No. 45 (2025): Variata

Section

Variata

License

Copyright (c) 2025 Rachel Scherrer, Eduardo Romeiro, Heloisa Santos

Creative Commons License

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.

When submitting an article for publication in ModaPalavra e-periodico, the author (s) agree (s) with the following terms:

  1. Authors maintain the copyright in their manuscripts and grant the journal the right of first publication, with work simultaneously licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International, which allows sharing the work with the acknowledgment of authorship and the initial publication in the journal without payment ;
  2. Authors may use the same results in other publications after the first publication, provided that they indicate ModaPalavra e-journal as the original publication medium;
  3. Authors are authorized to take additional contracts, separately, only after the original publication in ModaPalavra e-journal, provided they indicate ModaPalavra e-journal as the original publication medium;
  4. Authors are allowed and encouraged to publish and distribute their work online (eg in institutional repositories or on their personal page), only after the editorial process and the first publication, provided they indicate ModaPalavra e-journal as the original publication medium;
  5. To indicate ModaPalavra e-journal as the original publication medium, authors should use the following text template: "This article was originally published by ModaPalavra e-periodical, under a CC BY NC license, in its volume [insert volume] number [insert number] in the year of [insert year], and can be accessed at: http://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/modapalavra/ ";
  6. The opinions expressed in the articles are the author’s sole responsibility, not necessarily reflecting the journal’s opinion. The publication of any material that is owned and held in copyright by a third party, including – but not limited to - articles, photos or drawings was previously authorized by their representatives to be published in ModaPalavra e-journal.
Crossref
Scopus
Google Scholar
Europe PMC

Most read articles by the same author(s)