Design Science Research no projeto de malha spacer de trama para usuários com genodermatoses
DOI :
https://doi.org/10.5965.25944630932025e7524Mots-clés :
Epidermólise Bolhosa, estruturas têxteis, malhas spacer, design science research, ensinoRésumé
O estudo visa propor uma metodologia baseada em Design Science Research (DSR) para sistematizar o desenvolvimento de malhas spacer de trama destinadas a aplicações biomédicas, com ênfase em vestuário para pacientes com Epidermólise Bolhosa (EB) e outras genodermatoses. Os objetivos específicos incluem: facilitar a compreensão técnica de designers sobre o processo produtivo e contribuir para o ensino de estruturas têxteis técnicas. A pesquisa adota uma abordagem qualitativa de natureza aplicada, utilizando o modelo-DSR proposto por Pimentel, Filippo e Santos (2020). Foram utilizados softwares de design têxtil (Raynen) e teares retilíneos eletrônicos para prototipagem. Desenvolveram-se protótipos de malha spacer com base em parâmetros estruturais como densidade, inclinação dos fios, tensão e tipo de fibra. Duas estruturas foram criadas: uma malha jersey (controle) e uma derivada com poros e relevos superficiais para melhorar a permeabilidade e o conforto. A abordagem DSR mostrou-se eficaz para sistematizar o desenvolvimento dessas estruturas, promovendo a integração entre teoria e prática. Além disso, destacou-se a necessidade de incorporar ferramentas visuais (como simulações 3D) no ensino de design têxtil para melhorar a comunicação entre designers e técnicos.
Téléchargements
Références
ADVANCIS. Siltape. [S. l.], 2025. Disponível em: https://advancismedical.nl/products/siltape?shpxid=f2687936-83ba-47b0-86e6-04802ff12abd. Acesso em: 9 jun. 2025.
AGUIAR SOUZA, Ivis; KOHAN, Lais. Construção e simulação de estruturas têxteis entrançadas: considerações para o ensino de design têxtil. Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design, [s. l.], v. 8, n. 2, p. 1–31, 2024. Disponível em: https://doi.org/10.5965/25944630822024e5325. Acesso em: 11 fev. 2025.
AHMED, Usman; HUSSAIN, Tanveer; ABID, Sharjeel. Role of knitted techniques in recent developments of biomedical applications: A review. Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, [s. l.], v. 18, p. 15589250231180292, 2023. Disponível em: https://doi.org/10.1177/15589250231180293.
ALBAUGH, Lea et al. Engineering multifunctional spacer fabrics through machine knitting. In: , 2021, New York, NY, USA. Proceedings of the 2021 CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems. New York, NY, USA: Association for Computing Machinery, 2021. p. 1–12. Disponível em: https://dl.acm.org/doi/abs/10.1145/3411764.3445564. Acesso em: 24 jun. 2025.
ALBAUGH, Lea; HUDSON, Scott; YAO, Lining. Digital Fabrication of Soft Actuated Objects by Machine Knitting. In: , 2019, New York, NY, USA. Proceedings of the 2019 CHI Conference on Human Factors in Computing Systems. New York, NY, USA: ACM, 2019. p. 1–13.
ARAÚJO, Mário de. Manual das Malhas de Trama . 1. ed. Coimbra: Diretoria Geral da Indústria - DGI, 1988. v. Volume I
BETTENCOURT, Susana Lopes; CATARINO, André P; BLACK, Sandy. Bridging Fashion Design and the Knitwear Industry: A Literature Review. In: , 2023, Cham. (Ana Cristina Broega et al., Org.)Advances in Fashion and Design Research. Cham: Springer International Publishing, 2023. p. 373–383.
CADENA, Renata Amorim; COUTINHO, Solange Galvão; ANDRADE, Bruna. A linguagem gráfica em artefatos educacionais gerados com ferramentas de TIC. InfoDesign - Revista Brasileira de Design da Informação, [s. l.], v. 9, n. 1, p. 33–44, 2013.
CHANG, Yuping; HU, Hong. Warp knitting for preparation of high-performance apparels. In: MAITY, Subhankar et al. (org.). Advanced Knitting Technology. [S. l.]: Woodhead Publishing, 2022. p. 395–410. Disponível em: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9780323855341000076.
CHEN, Chaoyu et al. Analysis of physical properties and structure design of weft-knitted spacer fabric with high porosity. Textile Research Journal, [s. l.], v. 88, n. 1, p. 59–68, 2018. Disponível em: https://doi.org/10.1177/0040517516676060.
CLEVEN, Anne; GUBLER, Philipp; HÜNER, Kai M. Design alternatives for the evaluation of design science research artifacts. In: , 2009, New York, NY, USA. Proceedings of the 4th International Conference on Design Science Research in Information Systems and Technology. New York, NY, USA: Association for Computing Machinery, 2009. Disponível em: https://doi.org/10.1145/1555619.1555645.
DAVIES, A M. Use of knitted spacer fabrics for hygiene applications. In: MCCARTHY, Brian J (org.). Textiles for Hygiene and Infection Control. [S. l.]: Woodhead Publishing, 2011. p. 27–47. Disponível em: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9781845696368500037.
DEJENE, Bekinew Kitaw et al. Three-dimensional (3D) knitted spacer textile materials for advanced healthcare solutions: A comprehensive review. Journal of Industrial Textiles, [s. l.], v. 54, p. 15280837241290168, 2024. Disponível em: https://doi.org/10.1177/15280837241290169.
DEJENE, Bekinew Kitaw; GUDAYU, Adane Dagnaw. Exploring the potential of 3D woven and knitted spacer fabrics in technical textiles: A critical review. Journal of Industrial Textiles, [s. l.], v. 54, p. 15280837241253614, 2024. Disponível em: https://doi.org/10.1177/15280837241253614.
DENYER, Jacqueline; PILLAY, Elizabeth. Best practice guidelines for skin and wound care in epidermolysis bullosa. International Consensus. London: [s. n.], 2012.
DUNLAP, Joanna C; AND LOWENTHAL, Patrick R. Getting graphic about infographics: design lessons learned from popular infographics. Journal of Visual Literacy, [s. l.], v. 35, n. 1, p. 42–59, 2016. Disponível em: https://doi.org/10.1080/1051144X.2016.1205832.
ECKERT, Claudia. Managing Effective Communication in Knitwear Design. The Design Journal, [s. l.], v. 2, n. 3, p. 29–42, 1999.
EL MOGAHZY, Y E. Types of fabric for textile product design. In: EL MOGAHZY, Y E (org.). Engineering Textiles. [S. l.]: Woodhead Publishing, 2009. p. 271–299. Disponível em: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9781845690489500107.
FRAGOU, Olga; AND PAPADOPOULOU, Maria. Exploring infographic design in higher education context: towards a modular evaluation framework. Journal of Visual Literacy, [s. l.], v. 39, n. 1, p. 1–22, 2020. Disponível em: https://doi.org/10.1080/1051144X.2020.1737904.
FRANCIS, N; SPARKES, B. Knitted textile design. In: BRIGGS-GOODE, A; TOWNSEND, K (org.). Textile Design. [S. l.]: Woodhead Publishing, 2011. p. 55–87e. Disponível em: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/B9781845696467500032.
HALBRECHT, Anat et al. 3D Printed Spacer Fabrics. Additive Manufacturing, [s. l.], v. 65, p. 103436, 2023. Disponível em: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2214860423000490.
KURBAK, Arif. Geometrical models for weft-knitted spacer fabrics. Textile Research Journal, [s. l.], v. 87, n. 4, p. 409–423, 2017.
LAIMER, Martin; PRODINGER, Christine; BAUER, Johann W. Hereditary epidermolysis bullosa. JDDG: Journal der Deutschen Dermatologischen Gesellschaft, [s. l.], v. 13, n. 11, p. 1125–1133, 2015. Disponível em: https://doi.org/10.1111/ddg.12774.
LAM, Ngan Yi Kitty; LUO, Xue; LI, Li. Investigation on skin-protective clothing that addresses needs of epidermolysis bullosa patients/children with epidermolysis bullosa and their parents. The Journal of The Textile Institute, [s. l.], v. 113, n. 6, p. 1185–1196, 2022.
LOTZ, Kevin et al. Structural analysis of three-dimensional mesh fabric by Micro X-ray computed tomography. Journal of Engineered Fibers and Fabrics, [s. l.], v. 14, p. 1558925019896433, 2019. Disponível em: https://doi.org/10.1177/1558925019896433.
MIYAMOTO, Denise et al. Epidermolysis bullosa acquisita. Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia, [s. l.], v. 97, n. 4, p. 409–423, 2022.
PEFFERS, Ken et al. A Design Science Research Methodology for Information Systems Research. Journal of Management Information Systems, [s. l.], v. 24, n. 3, p. 45–77, 2007.
PIMENTEL, Mariano; FILIPPO, Denise; SANTOS, Thiago Marcondes dos. Design Science Research: pesquisa científica atrelada ao design de artefatos. RE@D - Revista de Educação a Distância e eLearning, [s. l.], v. 3, n. 1, p. 37–61, 2020. Disponível em: https://revistas.rcaap.pt/lead_read/article/view/21898. Acesso em: 28 nov. 2024.
RAY, Sadhan Chandra. Fundamentals and Advances in Knitting Technology. 1. ed. [S. l.]: Woodhead Publishing India, 2012a. v. 1 Disponível em: https://www.sciencedirect.com/book/9780857091086/fundamentals-and-advances-in-knitting-technology. Acesso em: 26 maio 2025.
RAY, Sadhan Chandra. Production of spacer fabrics in knitting. In: FUNDAMENTALS AND ADVANCES IN KNITTING TECHNOLOGY. [S. l.]: Elsevier, 2012b. p. 283–292.
RETROSI, Chiara et al. Multidisciplinary care for patients with epidermolysis bullosa from birth to adolescence: experience of one Italian reference center. Italian Journal of Pediatrics, [s. l.], v. 48, n. 1, p. 58, 2022.
RUDY, Ryan; WARDININGSIH, Wiah. Force attenuation capacity of weft-knitted spacer fabric in low-velocity impact. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, [s. l.], v. 33, n. 6, p. 942–952, 2021. Disponível em: https://doi.org/10.1108/IJCST-06-2020-0100.
SALIK, Deborah; RICHERT, Bertrand; SMITS, Guillaume. Clinical and molecular diagnosis of genodermatoses: Review and perspectives. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, [s. l.], v. 37, n. 3, p. 488–500, 2023.
SIMON, Herbert Alexander. The Sciences of the Artificial. 3. ed. Cambridge, Massachusetts - England: Massachusetts Institute of Technology - MIT Press, 1916.
SPENCER, David J. A comprehensive handbook and practical guide. Knitting Technology, 3rd Edition, Woodhead Publishing Ltd, [s. l.], 2001.
SPENCER, David J. Comparison of Weft and Warp Knitting. Knitting Technology, [s. l.], p. 39–49, 1983. Disponível em: Acesso em: 9 set. 2025.
STACEY, Martin K; ECKERT, Claudia M; WILEY, Jennifer. Expertise and creativity in knitwear design. International Journal of New Product Development and Innovation Management, [s. l.], v. 4, n. 1, p. 49–64, 2002. Disponível em: https://scholar.google.com/scholar?oi=bibs&cluster=7417058269820692478&btnI=1&hl=pt-PT. Acesso em: 5 maio 2025.
STOLL. Stoll Training Manual Flat Knitting Machine. Reutlingen, Germany: [s. n.], [s. d.]. Disponível em: https://nfc.stoll.com/faq/223788_01_train_learner_en.pdf. Acesso em: 30 jun. 2025.
TEKMEDASH, Mohadese Irani; EZAZSHAHABI, Nazanin; ASAYESH, Azita. The influence of fabric structure on the static and dynamic compressional performance of weft-knitted spacer fabrics. Mechanics of Time-Dependent Materials, [s. l.], v. 29, n. 2, p. 42, 2025. Disponível em: https://doi.org/10.1007/s11043-025-09778-9.
WU, Chong; JIAO, Xin-He. Simple and affordable soft brace application in dystrophic epidermolysis bullosa patients. Frontiers in Surgery, [s. l.], v. 10, 2024.
YU, Tianhong Catherine; MCCANN, James. Coupling Programs and Visualization for Machine Knitting. In: , 2020, New York, NY, USA. Symposium on Computational Fabrication. New York, NY, USA: ACM, 2020. p. 1–10.
ZHANG, Chibo; ZHAO, Yongli. Design and Application of Multimedia Technology-Based Curriculum for Visual Communication Majors. Advances in Multimedia, [s. l.], v. 2023, n. 1, p. 5061929, 2023. Disponível em: https://doi.org/10.1155/2023/5061929.
Téléchargements
Publiée
Comment citer
Numéro
Rubrique
Licence
(c) Tous droits réservés Ivis Aguiar Souza, Lais Kohan, Miguel Ângelo Fernandes Carvalho 2025

Ce travail est disponible sous la licence Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International .
- Les auteurs conservent les droits d’auteur et concèdent à la revue le droit de première publication, l’œuvre étant simultanément mise à disposition sous la Licence Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International, qui autorise:
1. Le partage — la copie et la redistribution de la matière sous toute forme ou support, pour toute utilisation, y compris commerciale.
2. L’adaptation — le remixage, la transformation et la création à partir du contenu, pour toute utilisation, y compris commerciale. Le concédant ne peut révoquer ces libertés tant que vous respectez les conditions de la licence.
Conformément aux conditions suivantes:
1. Attribution — Vous devez créditer de manière appropriée l’œuvre, fournir un lien vers la licence et indiquer si des modifications ont été effectuées. Cette attribution doit être faite dans toute circonstance raisonnable, sans toutefois suggérer que le concédant vous soutient ou soutient votre utilisation de l’œuvre.
2. Aucune restriction supplémentaire — Vous ne pouvez appliquer des conditions légales ou des mesures techniques qui restreindraient juridiquement autrui d’accomplir tout acte permis par la licence. - Le plagiat, sous toutes ses formes, constitue une pratique de publication contraire à l’éthique et est inacceptable. Cette revue utilise le logiciel de contrôle de similarité iThenticate.
Données de Fonds
-
Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia
Numéros de subventions 2024.05111.BDANA